Silvertip Tetra

Alternative Name(s):  Copper Tetra

Scientific Name(s): Hasemania nana

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: *

Maximum Size: 2" (5cm)

Minimum Tank Volume: 70 litres

Minimum Tank Size: It's an active species, so a small shoal will need a tank of at least 24" x 15" x 12" (60cm x 37.5cm x 30cm) - 70 litres in size.

Water Temperature Range: 23-28°C

Water pH Range: 6.0-8.0

Water Hardness Range: 5-20°H

General Information:

Tends to inhabit creeks and tributaries away from the main river channels. Apparently, it's found in both white and black water environments. The genus Hasemania is one of the few in the family Characidae in which members do not possess an adipose fin. This species is ubiquitous in most dealers' tanks and is one of the best choices for the newcomer to fishkeeping. All the fish sold in the trade have been captive bred and as such are unfussy with regard to both water chemistry and diet. It is sometimes seen for sale with the common name 'copper tetra'.

Tank Requirements:

Adaptable and will do well in most types of setup, but is particularly well-suited to a heavily planted tank. Oddly enough, aquatic plants are not a feature of its natural environment. A biotope setup would be rather more simple, consisting of a sandy substrate, a few driftwood branches and twisted roots and a scattering of dried leaves over the tank base (oak and beech leaves are both aquarium-safe once thoroughly dried). It will show its best colours under slightly dimmed lighting.

Diet Requirements:

Easy to feed. It will readily accept just about anything offered. For the best condition and colours, offer regular meals of small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp, along with dried flakes and granules.

Compatibility:

One of the best tetras for the 'general' community setup. It is lively, quite colourful and peaceful. It's a good tankmate for most livebearers, danios, rasboras, other tetras and peaceful bottom dwellers such as Corydoras or smaller Loricariids. It can also be kept with the majority of commonly available gouramis and dwarf cichlids. Obviously, it shouldn't be combined with larger species that may see it as food, such as angel fish. 

While some individuals can be a little nippy if kept alone, this behaviour is reduced dramatically when it is maintained in a group. It's therefore recommended to buy no less than 6 of these, preferably 10 or more.

Recommendations:

Should not be combined with larger species that may see it as food, such as angel fish. 

Sexing:

Males tend to be more intensely coloured and slimmer than females.

Breeding:

Quite easily bred, although you'll need to set up a separate tank in which to do so if you want to raise any numbers of fry. Something around 18" x 12" x 12" in size is fine. This should be dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops, to give the fish somewhere to deposit their adhesive eggs. You could also cover the base of the tank with some kind of mesh. This should be of a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it, but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. It can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen specimens of each sex being a good number. Condition these with plenty of live and frozen foods and spawning should not present too many problems. 

Alternatively, it can be spawned in pairs. Under this technique the fish are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks on a high quality diet of frozen and live foods, at a temperature around 75-78°F. Keep the temperature of the spawning tank a few degrees higher than the main tank, say around 82-86°F, with a pH on the acidic side of neutral. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawning tank. The pair should spawn the following morning. 

In either situation, the adults will eat the eggs given the chance and should be removed at the first opportunity ie. as soon as eggs are noticed. These will hatch in 24-36 hours, with the fry becoming free swimming a 3-4 days later. They should be fed on an infusoria-type food for the first few days, until they are large enough to accept microworm or brine shrimp nauplii. The eggs and fry are light sensitive in the early stages of life and the tank should be kept as dimly lit as possible.

Ornate tetra

Alternative Name(s): Ornate Tetra

Scientific Name(s): Hyphessobrycon bentosi

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: **

Maximum Size:  1.6" (4cm).

Minimum Tank Volume: 70 litres

Minimum Tank Size: A small group would need a tank of around 24" x 15" x 12" (60cm x 37.5cm x 30cm) - 70 litres in size.

Water Temperature Range: 75-82°F (24-28°C)

Water pH Range: Prefers soft, slightly acidic water in the range 5.5-7.0.

Water Hardness Range: 2-10°H

General Information:

A beautiful species that is very similar to a host of others in the genus, some of which are undescribed. The most frequently encountered of these in the trade is the rosy tetra, H. rosaceus . Hyphessobrycon bentosimay also be seen for sale as 'Bentos' tetra' or 'White-tipped tetra'. 

As with the closely related Hemigrammus, the taxonomic status of all species in the genus Hyphessobrycon is currently Incertae Sedis, meaning uncertain. The genus is currently used as something of a catch-all for over well over 100 species of small characin. Most experts agree that a full revision is required, with the likely outcome that many species will be placed into new or different genera. Hyphessobrycon bentosi is occasionally referred to by its synonym, H. robertsi.Native to the Amazon basin in Peru and Brazil. Primarily inhabits forested areas, in sluggish tributaries off the main river channels. The fish are often found among marginal vegetation or submerged tree roots.

Tank Requirements:

A biotope setup would be very simple to arrange. Use a substrate of river sand and add a few driftwood branches (if you can't find driftwood of the desired shape, common beech is safe to use if thoroughly dried and stripped of bark) and twisted roots. A few handfuls of dried leaves (again beech can be used, or oak leaves are also suitable) would complete the natural feel. Aquatic plants are not a feature of this species' natural waters. Allow the wood and leaves to stain the water the colour of weak tea, removing old leaves and replacing them every few weeks so they don't rot and foul the water. A small net bag filled with aquarium-safe peat can be added to the filter to aid in the simulation of black water conditions. Use fairly dim lighting. 

Diet Requirements:

Feeds chiefly on small invertebrates in nature. In the aquarium, it proves unfussy. Feed a mixture of dried flakes and granules along with small live and frozen foods.

Compatibility:

It's a very peaceful species that won't compete well with very boisterous or much larger tankmates. Ideally, keep it with other South American species, such as other Hyphessobrycon or Hemigrammus species, pencil fish,Apistogramma dwarf cichlids, Corydoras and small Loricariids. In a more general community, it can be combined with smaller rasboras, barbs, Anabantoids and West African dwarf cichlids such as Pelvicachromis species. Due to its shape it's safe to be kept with larger cichlids such as angel fish or discus as well. 

Always buy a group of at least 6 of these, preferably 10 or more. It's a shoaling species by nature, and will fare much better when in the company of its own kind. Like most tetras, it actually looks far more effective when maintained like this anyway. You'll also see some stunning displays of fin flaring by rival males if several are present.

Recommendations:

It's a popular and well-suited choice for the high maintenance, heavily planted tank.

Similar Species: Hemigrammus

Sexing:

Males develop extended dorsal and anal fins as they mature. They also tend to be larger, slimmer and a bit more colourful than females.

Breeding:

Can be bred in a similar way to other species in the genus. You'll need to set up a separate tank if you want to raise decent numbers of fry. Something around 18" x 10" x 10" in size is fine. This should be very dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops, to give the fish somewhere to deposit their eggs. Alternatively, you could cover the base of the tank with some kind of mesh. This should be of a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it, but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. The water should be soft and acidic in the range pH 5.5-6.5, gH 1-5, with a temperature of around 80-84°F. Filtering the water through peat is useful, as is the use of RO water. A small air-powered sponge filter bubbling away very gently is all that is needed in terms of filtration. 

It can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen specimens of each sex being a good number. Condition these with plenty of small live foods and spawning should not present too many problems. 

Alternatively, it can be spawned in pairs. Under this technique the fish, are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawning tank in the evening. They should spawn the following morning. 

In either situation, the adults will eat the eggs given the chance and should be removed as soon as eggs are noticed. These will hatch in 24-36 hours, with the fry becoming free swimming a 3-4 days later. They should be fed on an infusoria-type food for the first few days, until they are large enough to accept microworm or brine shrimp nauplii. The eggs and fry are light sensitive in the early stages of life and the tank should be kept in darkness if possible.

White spot tetra / Dawn tetra

Alternative Name(s): Dawn Tetra, White Spot Tetra, Rio Paraguay Tetra, Panda Tetra

Scientific Name(s): Aphyocharax paraguayensis

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: **

Maximum Size:  1.4" (3.5cm)

Minimum Tank Volume: 40.5 litres

Minimum Tank Size: You can keep a group of these diminutive characins in a tank as small as 18" x 12" x 12" (45cm x 30cm x 30cm).

Water Temperature Range: 72-82°F (22-27°C)

Water pH Range: 5.5-7.5

Water Hardness Range: 1-15°H

General Information:

A rare species in the trade, the Rio Paraguay Tetra is usually only encountered accidentally when it appears as contaminant in a shipment of another species of tetra. Though not imported very often, this species is hardy and does well in captivity. This is one of the several species of tetra that mimics Corydoras hastatus in coloration. This is a very active species. Because of this a tank of at least 3 feet should be provided  Natural Habitat: South American Rivers (Rio Paraguay Basin)

Tank Requirements:

Looks most at home in a planted aquarium. Provide areas of dense vegetation, along with some open areas for swimming. Other decor can consist of twisted roots and pieces of bogwood. Some floating vegetation is also a good idea, as it tends to swim in the upper reaches of the tank. The tank must have a very tightly-fitting cover as it will jump on occasion.

Diet Requirements:

Unfussy and will accept most dried, frozen and live foods.

Compatibility:

Peaceful enough but may nip a little at long-finned or slow-moving tankmates, and can bother sedentary species with its constant activity. Try keeping it in a mixed shoal with other characins, along with Corydorascatfish and small Loricariids. It's also a suitable companion for Apistogramma and other South American dwarf cichlids. Always keep it in a group of at least six as it's a shoaling fish by nature.

Common Problems:

Not a particularly popular tetra in the trade, Aphyocharax paraguayensis is most often imported as a contaminant amongst shipments of other species. It is sometimes available in larger numbers, usually very cheaply.

Similar Species:             

  

Characidae. Subfamily: Aphyocharacinae

Sexing:

Females are fuller-bodied when in breeding condition. Males have stronger markings on the anal fin than females.

Breeding:

Set up a separate small tank in which to spawn the fish. This can be as small as 12" x 8" x 8", and should be very dimly lit, with clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss to act as a spawning medium. Soft, acidic water (gH 2-5°, pH 5.5-6.0) is ideal; consider the use of reverse osmosis to achieve the desired effect. A small air-powered sponge filter completes the setup and will provide adequate aeration. The fish should be conditioned in a group in a separate tank on a high quality diet of frozen and live foods. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawing tank. 

Once they are in situ, continue to feed lots of live and frozen foods until you notice eggs. If the fish are in condition this will probably be the following morning. The eggs are usually deposited among the plants, but aren't adhesive, and many will fall to the tank floor or even float. The adults should be removed post-spawning as they will eat them given the opportunity. The eggs hatch in 24 hours or so, and after the tiny fry have used up their yolk sacs they should be offered infusoria-type food for the first few days, followed by microworm and/or brine shrimp nauplii. This is quite a fecund species considering its size, and you may end up with several hundred fry on your hands.

False Penguin Tetra

Scientific Name(s): Thayeria boehlkei

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: **

Maximum Size: Although listed by some sources as only attaining 1.4"/3.2cm it definitely grows larger. Expect it to reach at least 2.4"/6cm, with 3"/7.5cm not being that uncommon.

Minimum Tank Volume: 70 litres

Minimum Tank Size: A 24" x 15" x 12"/60cm x 37.5cm x 30cm/70 litre tank is suitable for a small group of these. Ideally keep it in higher numbers in a bigger tank though.

Water Temperature Range: 73° - 82°F/22 - 28°C

Water pH Range: Very adaptable regarding water chemistry, not least because almost all of the fish entering the trade are mass-produced for the purpose. It is equally happy in soft, acidic or harder, more alkaline conditions pH 5.5 - 8.0.

Water Hardness Range: Up to 20°H

General Information:

Probably restricted to parts of the upper Amazon basin in Peru and the Rio Araguaia in Brazil. The Araguaia flows through several Brazilian states and is thought to have numerous sources due to the high number of tributaries that empty into it. It's likely then that this species can be found existing in various types of habitat, from wetlands with luxuriant growth of underwater plants to jungle streams with dense marginal vegetation but little in the way of aquatic plant life.

There are only three species in the genus Thayeria, of which Thayeria boehlkei is by far the most popular in the hobby. Of its congeners, it was the type species T. obliqua  that was originally given the common name of "penguin" fish or tetra, although Thayeria boehlkei is usually sold under the same name (we've also seen it on sale as "hockeystick" tetra). The two are easy to tell apart, as in Thayeria boehlkei the thick black stripe extending from the lower lobe of the caudal fin travels laterally down the body to the opercle (gill flap). In T. obliqua  this tapers upwards, fading out completely before it reaches the dorsal fin. The third species, T. ifati is a very pretty little fish that is rarely available in the hobby. In this one the black stripe is only present in the uppermost part of the lower caudal lobe, but it is much more clearly defined than in T. obliqua  and extends upwards of the lateral line, beyond the dorsal fin. When in good condition the dorsal and anal fins develop attractive red tips, and the caudal lobes are edged in amber. All three species swim in an oblique, head-up style typical of the genus. 

As with many genera of small characin, the taxonomic status of Thayeria species is currently Incertae Sedis, meaning uncertain. Most experts agree that a full revision is required, with the likely outcome that many species will be placed into new or different genera.

Tank Requirements:

This species makes a superb addition to the heavily-planted aquarium or well-maintained community. A planted tank can of course be further decorated with twisted roots, branches, smooth rocks and stones. A dark substrate is best, and consider the addition of some floating plants to provide the shady conditions preferred by the fish. 

Alternatively, why not set up a jungle biotope-style tank? Use a substrate of river sand and add a few driftwood branches (if you can't find driftwood of the desired shape, common beech is safe to use if thoroughly dried and stripped of bark) and twisted roots. A few handfuls of dried leaves (beech, oak or Ketapang almond leaves are suitable, and a mixture of all three looks really good) would complete the natural feel. Allow the wood and leaves to stain the water the colour of weak tea. A small net bag filled with aquarium-safe peat can be added to the filter to aid in the simulation of black water conditions. If you're like us, you'll just get hold of some real peat fibre and literally add a few handfuls to the tank. This will become completely soaked with water after a few days and sink to the bottom. Provided a good routine of water maintenance is practiced no adverse effects should occur. 

In this kind of set-up slightly diffused or dimmed lighting is preferable. Aquatic plants will therefore not grow so well, but are generally not a feature of this species' natural waters anyway. You could add species that can survive under low lighting, such as Java fern (Microsorum pteropus), Java moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) , Anubiasor Cryptocorynes. None of these are biotopically correct of course, but they can certainly be used to create an effective display.

Diet Requirements:

It's a micropredator by nature, feeding on a variety of insects, worms, crustaceans and other small invertebrates in nature. It proves unfussy in the aquarium though, greedily accepting just about anything offered. For the best condition and colours offer regular meals of small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm,Daphnia and Artemia, along with dried flakes and granules.

Compatibility:

A peaceful species that won't compete well with very boisterous or much larger tankmates. Ideally, keep it with other South American species, such as Hemigrammus or Hyphessobrycon tetras, pencil fish, Apistogrammaand other small cichlids, Corydoras and Loricariids. In a more general community it can be combined with smaller rasboras, barbs, Anabantoids and West African dwarf cichlids such as Pelvicachromis species. 

Always buy a group of at least 6 of these, preferably 10 or more. It's a schooling species by nature, and will fare much better when in the company of its own kind. The fin-nipping behaviour that is sometimes attributed to this species does not usually manifest itself when it is kept in sufficient numbers, as the fish tend to concentrate on squabbling amongst themselves. Like most tetras it actually looks far more effective when maintained like this anyway.

Sexing:

Adult females are more rounded in the belly and a little less intensely coloured than males.

Breeding:

Quite easily bred, although you'll need to set up a separate tank in which to do so if you want to raise any numbers of fry. Something around 18" x 10" x 10" in size is fine. This should be very dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops, to give the fish somewhere to deposit their eggs. Alternatively, you could cover the base of the tank with some kind of mesh. This should be of a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it, but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. As the fish that are being used will almost certainly be tank bred water chemistry is less of an issue than with many tetras, although it's still best to aim for the acidic side of neutral. Set the temperature a few degrees higher than in the conditioning tank, as a raise in temperature is said to induce the fish to spawn. There's no real need to use peat filtration or ro water with this species, although you can do so if you wish. A small air-powered sponge filter bubbling away very gently is all that is needed in terms of filtration. 

It can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen specimens of each sex being a good number. Condition these with plenty of small live foods and spawning should not present too many problems. 

Alternatively, it can be spawned in pairs. Under this technique, the fish are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawning tank in the evening. They should spawn the following morning. This species is particularly fecund and a single female may produce as many as 3000 eggs, although around 1000 is more usual. Apparently males can release so much milt dueing a spawning event that an immediate partial water change is sometimes necessary. 

In either situation, the adults will eat the eggs given the chance and should be removed as soon as the semi-adhesive eggs are noticed. These will hatch in 12-24 hours, with the fry becoming free swimming 3-4 days later. They should be fed on an infusoria-type food for the first few days, until they are large enough to accept microworm or brine shrimp nauplii. The eggs and fry are light sensitive in the early stages of life and the tank should be kept in darkness if possible.

Diamond Head Neon Tetra

Scientific Name(s): Paracheirodon innesi

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: **

Swimming Level: Middle

Maximum Size:, Up to 2.5 inches (6.3cm)

Minimum Tank Volume: 40 litres

Minimum Tank Size: 10ft x 3ft x 3ft

Water Temperature Range: 68-74° F  / 22-28°C

Water pH Range: 5.0-7.0

Water Hardness Range: KH 4-8

General Information:

The Diamond Head Neon Tetra comes from the clear waters of South America. The Diamond Head variety ofParacheirodon innesi has been developed through selective breeding. This variety of Neon has a metallic "diamond" patch on its back between the eyes and dorsal fin. This variety of neon can be identified by the bright blue stripe, offset by red, that runs horizontally down the side of its body.

Tank Requirements:

In at least a 40 liter aquarium, plants, rocks, and some driftwood should be used to give the Diamond Head Neon Tetra hiding places and security. These are mid-level swimming fish, so taller plants should be used. They require a steady slightly acidic pH and constant temperature.

Diet Requirements:

The Diamond Head Neon Tetra will accept many small foods such as brine shrimp or daphnia, freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, micro pellet food, and a high quality flake food.

Compatibility:

Peaceful

Recommendations:

Ideal tank mates include: Tetras, Dwarf Gouramis, Danios, Rasboras, Rainbowfish, Discus, Angelfish, Guppies, Platies, Mollies, Swordtails, Plecos and small Scavenger Catfish.

Breeding:

In the aquarium, the female lays a relatively small number of eggs, which hatch in about 24 hours after fertilization. This can happen frequently if large numbers of Diamond Head Neon Tetras are present. To avoid losing the fry, a separate "breeding tank" should be used.

Neon Tetras

Scientific Name(s): Paracheirodon innesi

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: **

Maximum Size: 4cms

Minimum Tank Volume: 65 litres

Minimum Tank Size: 24"

Water Temperature Range: 21-26°C

Water pH Range: 5.0-7.0

Water Hardness Range: 1-7 dGH

General Information:

  

The Neon Tetra has a dark olive-green back over a silver-white abdomen. The fish is characterised by an iridescent blue horizontal stripe along its sides from the nose to the base of the adipose fin, and an iridescent red stripe that begins at the middle of the body and extends posteriorly to the base of the caudal fin. During the night, the colour disappears as the fish rests; it reappears once the fish becomes active in the morning.

Tank Requirements:

     

Soft, acidic conditions are best for these fish to thrive and display their colour. A black water environment can really bring out the richness of hues and show them at their most colourful.

Diet Requirements:

    

Neon Tetra are omnivorous and will accept most flake foods, but should also have some small live foods such as brine shrimp and daphnia, freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex and micro pellet food to supplement their diet. A tropical sinking pellet is ideal as most brands of these include natural color enhancers that really bring out the colour in Neon Tetra.

Compatibility:

Fish that mix well in an aquarium include other species of Tetra, such as the Rummy-Nose, Cardinal and Glowlight and other community fish that thrive in similar water conditions. Mid-level feeders, they are best kept in schools of six to eight or more if possible, for the "shoaling" effect when they move around the tank. They shoal naturally in the wild and are thus happier, more brightly coloured and more active when kept as a shoal as opposed to singly.

Recommendations:

Neons are best kept in a densely planted tank with subdued light and an ideal temperature of 24-26°C to resemble their native Amazon environment.

Common Problems:

Unfortunately, Neon Tetra are occasionally afflicted by the so-called "Neon Tetra Disease" (NTD) or Pleistophora which is usually fatal to the fish and currently without a cure. This sporozoan disease is caused by Pleistophora hyphessobryconis. Note that there is a so-called "false neon disease", which is bacterial, and shows very similar symptoms. It is impossible for the home aquarist to determine for certain the difference between NTD and false NTD on the basis of visible symptoms alone without laboratory backup. This disease has also been confused with Columnaris.

Similar Species:

         

Green Neon Tetra, Black Neon Tetra, Cardinal Tetra

Sexing: The male is slender and the blue line is straighter. The female is rounder, producing a bent blue line. Some say that the females look plumper when viewed from above but this is disputed.

Breeding:

To breed Neon Tetra place a pair of the species in a breeding tank without any light and gradually increase the lighting until spawning occurs. Other inducers include feedings of mosquito larvae.

Cardinal tetra

Scientific Name(s): Paracheirodon axelrodi

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: ***

Maximum Size: 5cms

Minimum Tank Volume: 65 litres

Minimum Tank Size: 24" x 15" x 12"

Water Temperature Range: 24-29°C

Water pH Range: 5.5-6.5

Water Hardness Range: 1-8 dGH

General Information:

Fantastic when kept in a shoal of six or more. Prefers a mature tank with lots of hiding places, good planting, caves, and dark substrates for cover and psychological comfort. Long lived for size.

Tank Requirements:

Either a biotope set up with blackwater conditions, sand, rock and bogwood or heavily planted. Shows its best colour in a densely planted tank.

Diet Requirements:

Omnivore, eats most foods. For longevity provide good variety, occasional frozen live foods, and vegetable treats like blanched lettuce for fibre.

Compatibility:

A peaceful fish, suitable for community tanks without large predatory fish. May potentially fin nip other common fish like Bettas, but generally peaceful. Works best with species from the same location - Apistogrammas, Cories, other Tetra etc.

Recommendations:

Must be kept in a shoal, better in groups of 10 plus than in the usual 6. Well planted tank. Well embellished Amazon setup hugely preferable. Because the bulk of these fish are still obtained from the wild, acicdic conditions are a MUST if they are to thrive. pH should be kept at 6.5 or below.

Common Problems:

A sensitive fish that needs good water quality. Mycobacteria. Suffers reduced longevity in high alkalinity. pH at 6.5 or below preferred for wild caught specimens. Aeromonas infections often cause necrosis of gut. Needs quarantine.

Similar Species:

               

Often confused with the Neon Tetra.

Sexing:

Sexually mature females are generally a little fatter and longer than the males.

Breeding:

The Cardinal is not easily bred and many are still imported from the wild, though tank bred stock is appearing more frequently.