Silvertip Tetra

Alternative Name(s):  Copper Tetra

Scientific Name(s): Hasemania nana

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: *

Maximum Size: 2" (5cm)

Minimum Tank Volume: 70 litres

Minimum Tank Size: It's an active species, so a small shoal will need a tank of at least 24" x 15" x 12" (60cm x 37.5cm x 30cm) - 70 litres in size.

Water Temperature Range: 23-28°C

Water pH Range: 6.0-8.0

Water Hardness Range: 5-20°H

General Information:

Tends to inhabit creeks and tributaries away from the main river channels. Apparently, it's found in both white and black water environments. The genus Hasemania is one of the few in the family Characidae in which members do not possess an adipose fin. This species is ubiquitous in most dealers' tanks and is one of the best choices for the newcomer to fishkeeping. All the fish sold in the trade have been captive bred and as such are unfussy with regard to both water chemistry and diet. It is sometimes seen for sale with the common name 'copper tetra'.

Tank Requirements:

Adaptable and will do well in most types of setup, but is particularly well-suited to a heavily planted tank. Oddly enough, aquatic plants are not a feature of its natural environment. A biotope setup would be rather more simple, consisting of a sandy substrate, a few driftwood branches and twisted roots and a scattering of dried leaves over the tank base (oak and beech leaves are both aquarium-safe once thoroughly dried). It will show its best colours under slightly dimmed lighting.

Diet Requirements:

Easy to feed. It will readily accept just about anything offered. For the best condition and colours, offer regular meals of small live and frozen foods such as bloodworm, Daphnia and brine shrimp, along with dried flakes and granules.

Compatibility:

One of the best tetras for the 'general' community setup. It is lively, quite colourful and peaceful. It's a good tankmate for most livebearers, danios, rasboras, other tetras and peaceful bottom dwellers such as Corydoras or smaller Loricariids. It can also be kept with the majority of commonly available gouramis and dwarf cichlids. Obviously, it shouldn't be combined with larger species that may see it as food, such as angel fish. 

While some individuals can be a little nippy if kept alone, this behaviour is reduced dramatically when it is maintained in a group. It's therefore recommended to buy no less than 6 of these, preferably 10 or more.

Recommendations:

Should not be combined with larger species that may see it as food, such as angel fish. 

Sexing:

Males tend to be more intensely coloured and slimmer than females.

Breeding:

Quite easily bred, although you'll need to set up a separate tank in which to do so if you want to raise any numbers of fry. Something around 18" x 12" x 12" in size is fine. This should be dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops, to give the fish somewhere to deposit their adhesive eggs. You could also cover the base of the tank with some kind of mesh. This should be of a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it, but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. It can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen specimens of each sex being a good number. Condition these with plenty of live and frozen foods and spawning should not present too many problems. 

Alternatively, it can be spawned in pairs. Under this technique the fish are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks on a high quality diet of frozen and live foods, at a temperature around 75-78°F. Keep the temperature of the spawning tank a few degrees higher than the main tank, say around 82-86°F, with a pH on the acidic side of neutral. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawning tank. The pair should spawn the following morning. 

In either situation, the adults will eat the eggs given the chance and should be removed at the first opportunity ie. as soon as eggs are noticed. These will hatch in 24-36 hours, with the fry becoming free swimming a 3-4 days later. They should be fed on an infusoria-type food for the first few days, until they are large enough to accept microworm or brine shrimp nauplii. The eggs and fry are light sensitive in the early stages of life and the tank should be kept as dimly lit as possible.

Ornate tetra

Alternative Name(s): Ornate Tetra

Scientific Name(s): Hyphessobrycon bentosi

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: **

Maximum Size:  1.6" (4cm).

Minimum Tank Volume: 70 litres

Minimum Tank Size: A small group would need a tank of around 24" x 15" x 12" (60cm x 37.5cm x 30cm) - 70 litres in size.

Water Temperature Range: 75-82°F (24-28°C)

Water pH Range: Prefers soft, slightly acidic water in the range 5.5-7.0.

Water Hardness Range: 2-10°H

General Information:

A beautiful species that is very similar to a host of others in the genus, some of which are undescribed. The most frequently encountered of these in the trade is the rosy tetra, H. rosaceus . Hyphessobrycon bentosimay also be seen for sale as 'Bentos' tetra' or 'White-tipped tetra'. 

As with the closely related Hemigrammus, the taxonomic status of all species in the genus Hyphessobrycon is currently Incertae Sedis, meaning uncertain. The genus is currently used as something of a catch-all for over well over 100 species of small characin. Most experts agree that a full revision is required, with the likely outcome that many species will be placed into new or different genera. Hyphessobrycon bentosi is occasionally referred to by its synonym, H. robertsi.Native to the Amazon basin in Peru and Brazil. Primarily inhabits forested areas, in sluggish tributaries off the main river channels. The fish are often found among marginal vegetation or submerged tree roots.

Tank Requirements:

A biotope setup would be very simple to arrange. Use a substrate of river sand and add a few driftwood branches (if you can't find driftwood of the desired shape, common beech is safe to use if thoroughly dried and stripped of bark) and twisted roots. A few handfuls of dried leaves (again beech can be used, or oak leaves are also suitable) would complete the natural feel. Aquatic plants are not a feature of this species' natural waters. Allow the wood and leaves to stain the water the colour of weak tea, removing old leaves and replacing them every few weeks so they don't rot and foul the water. A small net bag filled with aquarium-safe peat can be added to the filter to aid in the simulation of black water conditions. Use fairly dim lighting. 

Diet Requirements:

Feeds chiefly on small invertebrates in nature. In the aquarium, it proves unfussy. Feed a mixture of dried flakes and granules along with small live and frozen foods.

Compatibility:

It's a very peaceful species that won't compete well with very boisterous or much larger tankmates. Ideally, keep it with other South American species, such as other Hyphessobrycon or Hemigrammus species, pencil fish,Apistogramma dwarf cichlids, Corydoras and small Loricariids. In a more general community, it can be combined with smaller rasboras, barbs, Anabantoids and West African dwarf cichlids such as Pelvicachromis species. Due to its shape it's safe to be kept with larger cichlids such as angel fish or discus as well. 

Always buy a group of at least 6 of these, preferably 10 or more. It's a shoaling species by nature, and will fare much better when in the company of its own kind. Like most tetras, it actually looks far more effective when maintained like this anyway. You'll also see some stunning displays of fin flaring by rival males if several are present.

Recommendations:

It's a popular and well-suited choice for the high maintenance, heavily planted tank.

Similar Species: Hemigrammus

Sexing:

Males develop extended dorsal and anal fins as they mature. They also tend to be larger, slimmer and a bit more colourful than females.

Breeding:

Can be bred in a similar way to other species in the genus. You'll need to set up a separate tank if you want to raise decent numbers of fry. Something around 18" x 10" x 10" in size is fine. This should be very dimly lit and contain clumps of fine-leaved plants such as java moss or spawning mops, to give the fish somewhere to deposit their eggs. Alternatively, you could cover the base of the tank with some kind of mesh. This should be of a large enough grade so that the eggs can fall through it, but small enough so that the adults cannot reach them. The water should be soft and acidic in the range pH 5.5-6.5, gH 1-5, with a temperature of around 80-84°F. Filtering the water through peat is useful, as is the use of RO water. A small air-powered sponge filter bubbling away very gently is all that is needed in terms of filtration. 

It can be spawned in a group, with half a dozen specimens of each sex being a good number. Condition these with plenty of small live foods and spawning should not present too many problems. 

Alternatively, it can be spawned in pairs. Under this technique the fish, are conditioned in male and female groups in separate tanks. When the females are noticeably full of eggs and the males are displaying their best colours, select the fattest female and best-coloured male and transfer them to the spawning tank in the evening. They should spawn the following morning. 

In either situation, the adults will eat the eggs given the chance and should be removed as soon as eggs are noticed. These will hatch in 24-36 hours, with the fry becoming free swimming a 3-4 days later. They should be fed on an infusoria-type food for the first few days, until they are large enough to accept microworm or brine shrimp nauplii. The eggs and fry are light sensitive in the early stages of life and the tank should be kept in darkness if possible.

Hillstream loach

Alternative Name(s): Borneo Sucker Fish, Hongkong Plec, Chinese Plec

Scientific Name(s): Beaufortia kweichowensis

Category: Coldwater / Tropical

Difficulty: ****

Maximum Size: 7cms

Minimum Tank Volume: 75 litres

Minimum Tank Size: 24"

Water Temperature Range: 20-24°C

Water pH Range: 6.5-8.0

Water Hardness Range: 2-15 dGH

General Information:

Hillstream Loach are members of the family Balitoridae. They are small bottom-dwelling freshwater fish from Asia and there are about 500 species in 37 genera. Although they come from tropical waters they need high o2 so are best kept in cooler tanks. Balitorids are really interesting fish to watch. Although peaceful, most will defend territories, either to sequester feeding resources like a nice patch of algae, or to keep other fish away from a potential breeding site.

Tank Requirements:

See Minimum Tank Volume and Minimum Tank Size above

Diet Requirements:

Will eat prepared food, but also need a good algae growth for the little goodies (aufwuchs) that grow on it.

Compatibility:

White Cloud Mountain Minnows.

Recommendations:

A high oxygen tank is required to keep Hillstream Loach at their best. A river tank set up which has had time to mature is advisable.

Similar Species:            

   

Gastromyzon punctulatus, Pseudogastromyzon cheni.

Sexing:

Males are usually larger than females and often display stronger colouration.

Breeding:

Balitorids spawn in a depression in the substrate alongside a pebble or rock. The male wiggles about a bit to excavate a little hollow in the gravel. They have been known to breed in a Goldfish tank.

Platy

Scientific Name(s): Xiphophorus maculatus

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: *

Maximum Size: 7cms

Minimum Tank Volume: 60 litres

Minimum Tank Size: 24" x 12" x 12"

Water Temperature Range: 20-26°C

Water pH Range: 7.0-8.5

Water Hardness Range: 10-30 dGH

General Information:

Peaceful community fish. Excellent beginner's fish for more alkaline water. Exhibits no aggression, even between males. Now comes in a large variety of line-bred colour morphs and a shoal of these in a planted tank can make a very attractive display. More naturally coloured fish tend to be hardier.

Tank Requirements:

Best kept in a well planted tank as 2 male per 2-3 females to prevent any one female being harassed too much.

Diet Requirements:

Unfussy and will take most foods offered.

Compatibility:

Compatible with other peaceful community fish. Can hybridise wih the closely related Swordtail so not advised to keep these two species together.

Recommendations:

If you don't want to raise fry, keep Platys as a male only group.

Common Problems:

None as long as water is alkaline and pH always above 7.

Similar Species:

           

Swordtail, Guppy, Molly

Sexing: 

Males have a modified anal fin: the gonopodium, which is used to impregnate the females. Females are larger than males.

Breeding:

Breeds readily as often as every 4-6 weeks with fry born live and free-swimming and up to 80 fry per batch. Fry grow quickly and it's easy to be overrun.

Siamese Algae Eater

Alternative Name(s): Siamese flying fox, Flying fox, Siamese fox 

Scientific Name(s): Crossocheilus siamensis

Category: Tropical

Difficulty: **

Maximum Size: 6 inches / 15 cm

Minimum Tank Volume: 100 litres

Water Temperature Range: 75-79˚F / 24-26˚C

Water pH Range: 6.5-7 (tolerates a much larger range span)

Water Hardness Range: 5-20 dGH

General Information:

The Siamese algae eater is also known as the Siamese flying fox, Flying fox and Siamese fox. It is common in aquarium stores and a very good algae eater. A very similar species, Garra taeniata aka Epalzeorhynchus sp, is sometimes sold as Siamese algae eater which have earned that species the common name False siamese algae eater. A majority the Siamese algae eaters that are (or at least used to be) sold in United States are in fact False Siamese algae eaters. It is also common for shipments of Siamese algae eater to contain both Siamese algae eaters and False Siamese algae eater. This is not surprising as the species live in the same areas and young specimens of the two species school together. You can tell the two species apart by the following facts:

- The black horizontal band doesn't go all the way to the tail fin on a False Siamese algae eater.

- There is a narrow lighter band above the black band in a False Siamese algae eater.

- The dorsum of the False Siamese algae eater is solid grayish brown

- All fins on a false Siamese algae eater are yellowish in color except for the pectorals.

- The mouth of a false Siamese algae eater resembles a pink ring.

- False Siamese algae eaters have two set of barbles.

Tank Requirements:

The Siamese algae eater is a hardy fish that can adapt to a wide variety of living conditions as long as extremes are avoided, but they do best in planted aquariums with densely planted areas as well as open areas. Siamese algae eaters wants to have at least a few broad leafed plants in the aquarium since they like to rest on top of such leafs. Young specimens also use narrow leaves for this. If not provided with suitable plants they rest on the bottom. Adult fish are more prone to rest on the bottom even if suitable plants are available.

Diet Requirements:

This species is as earlier mentioned a good algae eater, but in most aquariums they will need other food as well as there simply isn't enough algae to sustain a school of Siamese algae eaters. They willingly accept all types of live, frozen and flake food. Feed them a varied diet with a lot of vegetable matter. If given too little green food in the aquarium they might hurt the plants. Young specimens are better algae eaters while older specimens seem to like other food more.

Compatibility:

Siamese algae eaters leave most plants alone but might eat Duckweed (Lemna minor) and the roots of the water hyacinth. They are best kept in schools. True Siamese algae eaters are peaceful and can be kept in community tanks with most other friendly fish. Avoid keeping them with long finned fish as they might bite the fins on long finned fish. The aquarium should be at least 25 gallon / 100 L.

Similar Species:

Garra taeniata aka Epalzeorhynchus sp

Sexing:

Siamese algae eaters are hard to sex but females are fatter than males and look more rounded when viewed from above. No other differences are known.

Breeding:

Nothing is known about breeding this species in aquariums without the aid of hormones. It is reasonable to assume that changes in the water (temperature, pH, hardness) and current conditions might trigger spawning in well conditioned fish.